Local Guide

Cafés & Bars & Restaurants

Mon Oncle Le Vigneron

A formica counter, an old swinging pendulum stopped, a barrel in the middle of the room, a window with empty bottles... Here it is like staying with folks in the French countryside. What's more they're great chefs. We can even c

Location: 2 rue Pradier

Phone: 01 42 00 43 30

Les folies / Le Mercure

Two must hit spots in Belleville for their very Parisian atmosphere but also for their decors by Daniel Affolter, who is known as ChelVis, because of his love for Che Guevera and Elvis. They are the Sixtine chapels of this hood.

Location: 8 rue de Belleville / 84 rue Pixérécourt

Phone:

Le Quartier Saint-Blaise

A Parisian neighborhood that resists completely being chichi and common place. A real living post card. This is where Mama Shelter is growing up.

Location: Métro Porte de Bagnolet

Phone:

Zoé Bouillon

A soup boutique where you can eat in or take out. Not only delicious, but also homemade with different seasonal options and humorous names like "soupl'ess", "souper'man", "souperior"...

Location: 66 rue Rébeval

Phone: 01 42 02 02 83

Le Zéphir

For their Sunday brunch picnic served until whenever: vegetable puree, sausage, pan fried eggs, seasonal fruits, and tomato and mozzarella au gratin, etc.

Location: 1, rue Jourdain

Phone: 01 46 36 65 81

Valentin

This restaurant with a 30's decor might be a culinary branch of the U.N. Thailandese stews, Argentinian dishes, an owner from Auvergne, Italian waiters. A great atmosphere without borders.

Location: 64 rue Rébeval

Phone: 01 42 08 12 34

Le Salon

One of 8 restaurants on Rue Sorbier: A small restaurant at lunchtime. At night, it's a delicious place for an aperitif (which the French often call an apero).

Location: 7 rue Sorbier

Phone:

Le Rez-de-Chaussée

One of 8 restaurants on Rue Sorbier: traditional French food.

Location: 10 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 43 58 30 14

Retour à sorbier

One of 8 restaurants on Rue Sorbier: A mix of Portuguese, French, and Spanish cuisine spiced up with concerts.

Location: 8 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 46 36 78 03

Le Baratin

Raquel, holy casserole maker of Agentinian origin, has made this place in her image, unforgettable.

Location: 3 rue Jouye Rouve

Phone: 01 43 49 39 70

Le QG

One of eight restaurants on Rue Sorbier: French, Greek, Lebanese, Turkish cuisine.

Location: 9 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 46 36 41 33

Pho Dong Huong

A delicious Vietnamese restaurant, packed with its many fans.

Location: 14 rue Louis Bonnet

Phone: 01 43 57 42 81

Chez Luna

Known by aficionados of good traditional cuisine and Portuguese tapas.

Location: 108 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 46 36 72 26

Le Lieu Dit

One of eight restaurants on Rue Sorbier: with a social and cultural mission.

Location: 6 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 40 33 26 29

Lao Siam

The most refined Asian restaurant in Belleville with a fabulous menu.

Location: 49 r Belleville

Phone: 01 40 40 09 68

Kfé Olé

Generous plates of tapas prepared by Marie, originally from Gallice.

Location: 29 rue St Blaise

Phone: 01 43 67 38 77

Jeux de Pom’

It is a place for pleasure, where one enjoys food, color, and life, according to the three owners, one of whom has worked in the kitchen of pastry chef Herm.

Location: 123 Bd Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 47 00 03 66

Le Jardin

One of 8 restaurants on the street Rue Sorbier (this one's the last on the street) specialties include tajine, couscous. With a warm decor that will have an allure for people on the verge of big things.

Location: 52 bis rue de la Bidassoa

Phone: 01 46 36 27 99

French K-wa

The owner knows his stuff because he was formerly associated with some of the biggest night spots and music groups in Paris: Caberet du Sauvage, Divan du Monde, Gareons Boucher. So count on an excellent ambience at his counter, while dining in h

Location: 6 rue Planchat

Phone: 01 43 70 41 03

L'Escargot

Absolutely try one of their 165(!) cocktails.

Location: 50 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 42 06 03 96

L'Entrepot’s

One of 8 restaurants on the little street Rue Sorbier: A classic that plays with the working class and bohemian image of the area.

Location: 2 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 43 49 59 17

Chapeau melon

In the universe where wines have become so standardized and mechanized, there is still a little bit of resistance. This is the motto of this restaurant with communal tables. A promise that it knows how to keep.

Location: 92 rue Rébeval

Phone: 01 42 02 68 60

Bar de l’Amitié

French/Iranian food, prepared in an atmosphere that is very friendly.

Location: 22 rue des Vignoles

Phone: 01 43 79 83 14

L'Ange gardien

An egg with mayonnaise that's to die for, and a celery salad that's addictive. It's a spot that will help you make peace with memories of your high school cafeteria (if you went to a French primary school and had to endure the institutional ver

Location: 189 rue des Pyrénées

Phone: 01 43 58 59 97

A la Vierge de la Réunion

The restaurant to hit in autumn and winter with the ambience of a really hip cafeteria. A remarkable wine cellar, that charges wine shop versus restaurant prices.

Location: 58 rue de la Réunion

Phone: 01 43 67 51 15

Rues & Places & Jardins

Carthage

The best Asian boulangerie in the area, according to a Belleville resident.

Location: 47 bd Belleville

Phone: 01 43 57 37 21

Rue des Cascades

From here, you can take the streets Envierges, la Mare, and Couronnes, which will lead you to Belleville in one direction and to the Rue des Pyrenees in the other.

Location: Métro Jourdain

Phone:

Rue de la Villette

The place to buy with stores featuring clothing, decorative arts, books, toys, and flowers. And it's all got the bohemian feel of street photographer Cartier Bresson.

Location: Métro Jourdain

Phone:

Rue de Bagnolet

Strewn with paved alleys, factories transformed into homes, a wild garden, villas painted in vibrant colors, fun bars, and unique boutiques It's on this street where Mama Shelter lives.

Location: Métro Porte de Bagnolet

Phone:

Place Ménilmontant

Its name evokes Edith Piaf, and it leads to one of the steepest streets in Paris --Menilmontant.

Location: Métro Ménilmontant

Phone:

Place Jourdain

Its Jean-Baptiste church (named after the saint who baptized Christ in the Jordan), its metro Guimard served by line 11 (one of the shortest in the city), its delicious boulangerie, its bar/tabac, and its florist

Location: Métro Jourdain

Phone:

Place des Panoyaux

A square so tiny that it gets eaten up by three atypical businesses: an exotic grocery store, a cafe called le Pascalou, and a boulangerie, which can be more aptly described as an excellent restaurant.

Location: Métro Ménilmontant

Phone:

Place Maurice Chevalier

For a real post card view: The church (the biggest after Sacre Cur), benches spotted with old folks and smokers, bars La Petanque and Bar Chichi, its boulangerie, its bowls court.

Location: Métro Ménilmontant

Phone:

La Rue de Ménilmontant

One of the steepest streets in the city but worth the climb. Upon arriving at the summit, have a seat on a bench for a magnificent view of Paris.

Location: Métro Ménilmontant

Phone:

Les rues de l'Ermitage et des Cascades

One of the steepest streets in the city but worth the climb. Upon arriving at the summit, have a seat on a bench for a magnificent view of Paris.

Location: Métro Jourdain

Phone:

L'Eden Bio

Two streets, twinlike in their beauty: villas, green patches, red and yellow houses, a small country style cafes, rose covered walls, cats

Location: Métro Avron

Phone:

La Campagne à Paris

Formerly a workers quarter that was on the fringe, but today, this is one of the hippest spots in town: a sort of country retreat in Paris with its strawberry colored houses, small gardens, vine covered walls, blue curtains, and chiming bells.&l

Location: Métro Porte de Bagnolet

Phone:

Sur Le Pounce

Pâtisserie de l’Eglise

A pastry shop at the mature age of 121 that's been in the same family of chefs for eight generations. A visual and culinary wonder.

Location: 10 rue du Jourdain

Phone: 01 46 36 66 08

Fromagerie de Madame Jouanneau

A cheese shop that's been around since 1936, adjacent to the cemetery, Pere Lachaise. A real pleasure to listen to Madame Jouanneau, who talks with a Piafesque Parisian accent, about this area of the city. Her cheeses are without question delici

Location: 5 place Auguste-Métivier

Phone:

Ice to Ice

Enjoy an irresistible frozen custard and sculptures that could have come out of a Bavarian castle.

Location: 30,32 Bd Ménilmontant

Phone:

Librairies

Le Monte-en-l’air

Only exceptional stuff in this bookstore/gallery that's very committed to rock.

Location: 6 rue des Panoyaux

Phone: 01 40 33 04 54

Le Merle Moqueur

A quiet bookstore that attracts a hip crowd on Rue Bagnolet

Location: 37 rue de Bagnolet

Phone: 01 40 09 08 80

Libre Ere

A bookstore selling magazines and newspapers in the spirit of the neighborhood: revolutionary!

Location: 111 Bd Ménilmontant

Phone:

Librairie Photographique

A bookstore owned by a lover of photography who insists on sharing his passion.

Location: 17 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 48 07 80 90

Genre Urbain

It's a remarkable bookstore nestled between Chinese restaurants and nic nac stores.

Location: 30 rue de Belleville

Phone: 01 44 62 27 49

Equipages

Its owner, Pierre, the pioneering bookstore owner of the neighborhood, is a wealth of knowledge about the 20th arrondissement.

Location: 61 rue de Bagnolet

Phone: 01 43 73 75 98

L'Atelier

Book shop, run by a guy, so totally crazy for books, that he's opened another book shop across the way for kids.

Location: 3 rue Constant Berthaut

Phone: 01 43 58 00 26

Espaces Culturels

Réparateur de vieux ordinateurs

Even if you have no machine to get repaired, stop by this museum of technological antiques, and you might get a chance to see, for example, the first Mac.

Location: 32 rue Etienne Dolet

Phone:

Les Z’indems’

Nadia, formerly a radio director, launched this bar with her "indem" the French word for severance pay and the inspiration for her bar's moniker. On the program: poetry nights, one man shows, political debates, world music concerts, reknowned art

Location: 144 rue de Bagnolet

Phone: 01 43 73 38 55

Le Vieux Belleville

Maurice Chevalier ready to dine, Edith Piaf leaning against a wall, an accordion placed on a table., a counter from that time, plates of sausages and cheese... If you've ever dreamed of going back to the beginning of the 20th ce

Location: 12 rue des Envierges

Phone: 01 44 62 92 66

Carré de Baudoin

Born in 1723 for pleasure and for parties, this house, named for its first owner, just reopened its doors to the public. And it is henceforth an arts center. The first in the 20th arrondissement, which accommodates more than 400 artist studios.

Location: 119 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 58 53 55 40

Les ateliers d'Elisabeth Daynes

"CSI" is nothing compared to the work of Elisabeth Danes. And the Museum Grevin (Paris wax museum) is just a dusty relic. In less than five months, Ms. Danes has given a new face to a seven million year old guy. Sculptress and anthropologist,

Location: 129 rue du Faubourg du Temple

Phone: 01 42 41 17 36

Place Edith Piaf

Enjoy a stroll in this square, dedicated to La Môme ("The Kid") the French nickname of Edith Piaf. (But don't expect much: there's not a lot to see.)

Location: 22 rue de la Py

Phone:

Piaf

Here on these steps, a legend was born - December 19, 1915. Actually, the sign embellishes the legend of Piaf, who was actually just born in the Tenon hospital in the 20th arrondissement.

Location: 72 rue de Belleville

Phone:

Musée Edith Piaf

The adress is kept secret as long until you get a reservation. Free visit from Monday to Wednesday from 1p.m. to 6p.m. (by appointment). Subway Ménilmontant.

Location: Sur Rendez-vous

Phone: 01 43 55 52 72

Le Père Lachaise

The unavoidable cemetery: Pere Lachaise. For something more out of the ordinary, try a themed visit (black humour, oddities, love). For the schedule, on Google type Bertrand Beyern or via e-mail info@afif.asso.fr

Location: Métro Père Lachaise

Phone:

La Forge de Belleville

One of the most important artist residences and workshops in Paris, situated in what was once an industrial wasteland at the beginning of the twentieth century. Unmissable.

Location: 23/25 rue Ramponeau

Phone: 01 47 97 93 89

Académie Tango

Pascale, the Frenchwoman, met Luis, the Argentinian, in Buenos Ares during a Tango ball that lasted into the wee hours of the morning. Some years later, they imported their love for tango to this room, in a building that recalls the unforgettabl

Location: 3 rue des Vignoles

Phone: 06 75 05 99 95

La Flèche d’Or

Just across from Mama Shelter: the true temple of the European rock scene. Free entry.

Location: 102 bis rue de Bagnolet

Phone: 01 44 64 01 02

Cours de Flamenco

Dance Andalusian style. Located at a dead end with fiery red buildings, where the historic offices of the union of anarchist revolutionaries, the CNT, is located. This is really a revolutionary neighborhood.

Location: 33 rue des Vignoles

Phone:

Bed Up

An architects studio that's a must see. For example, check out the beds arranged on the ceiling.

Location: 15 rue des platrières

Phone: 01 46 36 19 63

Le Zèbre

This old Belleville animal originated in the 30's as a movie theater before becoming a famous artistic squat 50 years later. Today, it is the smallest cabaret in the world, run by a 60 year-old clown, Francis Schoeller, and his family.

Location: 63 Bd de Belleville

Phone: 01 43 55 55 55

Culture Rapide

In this unpretentious, welcoming cafe, the star is spoken word. Hence, its poetry and slam parties, in addition to concerts punk and classical. Rimbaud, Proust, Musset, Dylan are paid tribute to on cards that come with your entrance fee and say

Location: 103 Rue Julien Lacroix

Phone: 01 46 36 08 84

Confluences

Known historically for its artistic events: concerts, performances, expositions. Also, a really pretty space, under its olive trees or on its terrace for dinner, brunch, or lunch. Saturdays, hit its organic market.

Location: 190 Bd Charonne

Phone: 01 40 24 16 34

La Bellevilloise

Une référence historique en matière d'événements artistiques : concerts, spectacles et expos. En plus d'être un très bel espace, sous ses ol

Location: 19 rue Boyer

Phone: 01 46 36 07 07

Le Bar Floréal

A cultural space run by a collective of six photographers. Their photo shows complimented by cocktail hours (or rather their cocktail hours complimented by photo shows) are overrun by people.

Location: 43 rue des Couronnes

Phone: 01 43 49 55 22

Shoping

Vintage 77

Vintage version of Pucci, YSl, Chanel, Fendi, Cacharele..., but also contemporary designers like Vanessa Bruno, at very moderate prices.

Location: 77 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 47 97 77 17

Pollen

A clothing boutique as girls like them, especially if they love young European fashuion designers. Men are entitled the same honnors on the opposite roof.

Location: 7 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 42 02 31 20

Philippe Vignal–Mosaics

The art of making mosaics out of bathroom tiles that you can hang in your living room.

Location: 57 rue de la Mare

Phone: 06 64 13 86 93

La Petite Maison dans la Villette

If you're nostalgic for Laura Ingalls.

Location: 33 rue de la Villette

Phone: 06 31 68 89 80

Monoprix

A department store from the beginning of the twentieth century, long adored by our grandmothers. Monop', as French commonly call it, is today a very hip address for urban fashionistas on a tight budget. As good in fashion as it is in housewares.&

Location: 133 rue de Belleville

Phone:

Momo Fringues

This vintage and second hand shop inspires all style mavens on the planet as well as those affiliated with Vogue Japan, Elle Italy...

Location: 31 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone:

Hélène Eber-Specher

Customized hand bags.

Location: 57 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 43 58 15 96

Garrice

You could call it a gallery: she's made shoes into high art. Alexandra has unearthed her treasures in Brasil, France, New York, and Italy. Real gems (also quite costly like actual jewelry) that one must certainly stop to admire, and why not treat

Location: 40 Bd de Charonne

Phone: 01 43 70 46 70

Estelle Ramousse Atelier

Estelle is a very fashionable stylist. And her looks are a reference for people in the theater world as well as for fashion magazines. Her clients are fans of her exceptional works in snakeskin, feathers, and vinyl.

Location: 64 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 11 77 29 04

Chaussures Germaine

One of the last Parisian workshops to make custom made shoes. Dior sends their clients here in order to perfect their looks.

Location: 32 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 43 66 03 84

La Cave des Cascades

The mission of this wine merchant: to satisfy one's thirst for liberty. His exceptional focus: unique, local vintages. His special strength: Nicaraguan rhum, Champagne Drappier. His quirky side: his limited edition wine bottle labels,<

Location: 101 Bis rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 40 33 42 53

Brocante

In addition to selling objects and furniture collected under the name "Exceptional personalities", this second hand trader organizes cocktail parties that go on until dawn.

Location: 5 rue d’Eupatoria

Phone: 01 44 62 20 69

BMG

What's more original than to have a weekend aperitif at the oldest Motobécane mechanic (Motobécane: a historically huge French bike and scooter manufacturer) and the only bike mechanic in the hood.

Location: 10 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 46 36 74 63

Beau travail

In this old photo studio all decked out in white tiles, you'll find four stylists with four different specialties: design, fashion, accessories, and children. Fresh and charming, this studio only opened to the public on Saturday

Location: 67 rue de la Mare

Phone:

L'Embellie Design

In vogue creations by designers at a very reasonable prices.

Location: 14 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 42 01 42 89

Slot and Go

For followers, big and small of slot cars. According to its two owners, it's the biggest store of its kind in France. Free entry, but keep in mind that the car addicts have trouble letting go of the levers.

Location: 284 rue des Pyrénées

Phone: 01 46 36 92 23

Bazar de Belleville

At the corners of streets, between two Chinese restaurants, quite narrow, congested, with confusing shelves sets, they are everywhere in the neighborhood. Recalling the days of a less commercialized Paris, these shops, which evo

Location: 51 rue de Belleville

Phone:

Les Marchés en Plein Air

Vintage 77

Vintage version of Pucci, YSl, Chanel, Fendi, Cacharele..., but also contemporary designers like Vanessa Bruno, at very moderate prices.

Location: 77 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 47 97 77 17

Pollen

A clothing boutique as girls like them, especially if they love young European fashuion designers. Men are entitled the same honnors on the opposite roof.

Location: 7 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 42 02 31 20

Philippe Vignal–Mosaics

The art of making mosaics out of bathroom tiles that you can hang in your living room.

Location: 57 rue de la Mare

Phone: 06 64 13 86 93

La Petite Maison dans la Villette

If you're nostalgic for Laura Ingalls.

Location: 33 rue de la Villette

Phone: 06 31 68 89 80

Monoprix

Location: 133 rue de Belleville

Phone:

Momo Fringues

This vintage and second hand shop inspires all style mavens on the planet as well as those affiliated with Vogue Japan, Elle Italy...

Location: 31 rue de Ménilmontant

Phone:

Hélène Eber-Specher

Customized hand bags.

Location: 57 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 43 58 15 96

Garrice

Location: 40 Bd de Charonne

Phone: 01 43 70 46 70

Estelle Ramousse Atelier

Location: 64 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 11 77 29 04

Chaussures Germaine

One of the last Parisian workshops to make custom made shoes. Dior sends their clients here in order to perfect their looks.

Location: 32 rue de la Mare

Phone: 01 43 66 03 84

La Cave des Cascades

Location: 101 Bis rue de Ménilmontant

Phone: 01 40 33 42 53

Brocante

In addition to selling objects and furniture collected under the name "Exceptional personalities", this second hand trader organizes cocktail parties that go on until dawn.

Location: 5 rue d’Eupatoria

Phone: 01 44 62 20 69

BMG

What's more original than to have a weekend aperitif at the oldest Motobécane mechanic (Motobécane: a historically huge French bike and scooter manufacturer) and the only bike mechanic in the hood.

Location: 10 rue Sorbier

Phone: 01 46 36 74 63

Beau travail

Location: 67 rue de la Mare

Phone:

L'Embellie Design

In vogue creations by designers at a very reasonable prices.

Location: 14 rue de la Villette

Phone: 01 42 01 42 89

Slot and Go

Location: 284 rue des Pyrénées

Phone: 01 46 36 92 23

Bazar de Belleville

Location: 51 rue de Belleville

Phone:

Beauté

Marché Télégraphe

This food market is located Rue du Telegraphe (Belleville Cemetery). Wednesday. from 7a.m. to 2:30p.m., and Saturday, from 7a.m. to 3p.m.

Location: Métro Télégraphe

Phone:

Marché Réunion

This food market is located Place de la Reunion. Thursday, from 7a.m. to 2:30p.m., and Sunday, from 7a.m. to 3p.m.

Location: Métro Alexandre Dumas

Phone:

Marché Pyrénées

This food market is located Rue des Pyrenees between the streets Ermitage and Menilmontant. Thursday, from 7a.m. to 2:30p.m. and on Sunday, from 7a.m to 3p.m.

Location: Métro Pyrénées.

Phone:

Marché Père-Lachaise

This market is located Boulevard Menilmontant between the streets Panoyaux and Cendriers. Tuesday and Friday, from 7a.m to 2:30p.m.

Location: Métro Ménilmontant.

Phone:

Marché Charonne

This market starts at the 129th Boulevard de Charonne and ends Rue Alexandre Dumas. Wednesday, from 7a.m. to 2:30p.m. and Saturday from 7a.m. to 3p.m.

Location: Métro Alexandre Dumas

Phone: